The speed of the nail drill bit during a hardware manicure is a crucial factor that affects the quality of the final result, the client's comfort during the procedure and the risk of skin injury.
Usually, if the client is a regular and you have done their manicure before, you already know which drill bit to use. When a client comes for the first time, you need to be especially careful when setting the speed to understand which rotation speed works best in practice.
First Tip: Set the drill speed lower than you typically use for that skin type to avoid mistakes due to unfamiliarity with the client's specific needs.
Factors Determining the Optimal Speed
To determine the appropriate speed for the nail drill during a hardware manicure, the nail technician should consider two factors:- Type of Cuticle
- Depth of the Cuticle Pocket
Type of Cuticle
First, identify the type of cuticle on the client's nails. There are at least three types of cuticles: normal, overgrown, and moist.
- Normal Cuticle: Smooth and even without signs of inflammation, cracks, or hangnails. It grows evenly and does not extend beyond the proximal fold. This type is the easiest to work with.
- Overgrown Cuticle: This cuticle extends beyond the proximal fold and covers more of the nail plate than it should.
- Moist Cuticle: This is a sticky or creeping cuticle that does not respond well to treatment and is difficult to lift as it tears easily, turning into a fringe.
Depth of the Cuticle Pocket:
Next, determine the depth of the cuticle pocket. The cuticle pocket is the space between the pterygium and the cuticle, where adhesions can occur. If not removed, live tissue can remain inside, which is easily damaged during further work with the drill.
Shallow pockets require especially careful handling to avoid cuts or inflammation from too deep penetration.
Drill Speed for Each Type of Cuticle
For a hardware manicure on nails with a normal cuticle, a wide range of drill speeds can be used, from the minimum to the maximum specified by the device. In this case, the technician's experience, training, and confidence in using the nail drill are crucial. The general recommendation is to match the technician's concentration and attentiveness to the speed of the device.
For an overgrown cuticle, preliminary work is needed to detach the cuticle and open the pocket, for example, using an orange stick or pusher. If the cuticle is heavily adhered, a flame-shaped bit may be used. This bit is the most versatile, and some experienced nail technicians can perform the entire manicure procedure with a single nail drill bit.
For overgrown cuticles, use a lower drill speed - 15,000-17,000 RPM. It is better to avoid maximum speeds in this case.
For a moist cuticle, which is usually quite sensitive, choose low speeds, such as 8,000-10,000 RPM. Remember that working at minimum speeds requires constant attention to the cleanliness of the bit and more frequent cleaning of the bit from adhered dust.
